A bit about the rudder installation
The rudder attaches with screws from the inside of the standoff and since the screws don't sit on a flat surface some additional work needs to be done.
Of course there are several ways of doing this but here is roughly how Hanspeter explained the rudder installation. Cut four 30mm long pieces of 4mm (inner diameter of 3mm) stainless steel or brass tubing, roughen up the outside with some sand paper and clean with acetone. You will also need some epoxy resin and four 3M x 35mm long stainless steel hex screws.
Rudder tubes and screws
Action
Drill 4mm the holes for the rudder and get everything ready for rudder installation. Since the screws mount from the inside of the standoff to the rudder which has 3mm threads it can be a little tricky to get aligned perfectly. A jig can make things a lot easier :-)
Once you have drilled the four 4mm holes in the rudder standoff proceede as follows.
Push the four tubes into the drilled holes so they are flush with the back of the standoff, optionaly put a little grease on the back of the standoff so the expoy won't stick to it in case some epoxy manages to squeeze through somewhere and then screw the rudder onto the hull.
Once this is done and everything looks ok you can "pour" some epoxy resin (I thickened mine a little with cotton flakes) into the back of the standoff being carefull not to cover the screw heads with epoxy, I used a syringe with a large diameter needle! You should only be "glueing" the tubes. For safety you can also apply some grease to the screw threads and heads to avoid epoxy sticking to them.
Then put the hull aside somewhere safe with the bow pointing up into the air and let the resin set. Make sure the boat is perfectly vertical in both axis.
And now time for bed.....
Oh and I almost forgot, I also glued in two 2mm thick CF plates (starboard and port) to strenghen the back of the sponson where the arneson drives get mounted. This is not absolutely required but when I talked about it with HP he said it was probably a good thing. Hp does not sell these so you need to make your own. I have also read that there is someone else selling these as part of a CF kit for the HPR 06.
The rudder attaches with screws from the inside of the standoff and since the screws don't sit on a flat surface some additional work needs to be done.
Of course there are several ways of doing this but here is roughly how Hanspeter explained the rudder installation. Cut four 30mm long pieces of 4mm (inner diameter of 3mm) stainless steel or brass tubing, roughen up the outside with some sand paper and clean with acetone. You will also need some epoxy resin and four 3M x 35mm long stainless steel hex screws.
Rudder tubes and screws
Action
Drill 4mm the holes for the rudder and get everything ready for rudder installation. Since the screws mount from the inside of the standoff to the rudder which has 3mm threads it can be a little tricky to get aligned perfectly. A jig can make things a lot easier :-)
Once you have drilled the four 4mm holes in the rudder standoff proceede as follows.
Push the four tubes into the drilled holes so they are flush with the back of the standoff, optionaly put a little grease on the back of the standoff so the expoy won't stick to it in case some epoxy manages to squeeze through somewhere and then screw the rudder onto the hull.
Push the tubes in flush with the standoff
Screw rudder on
Once this is done and everything looks ok you can "pour" some epoxy resin (I thickened mine a little with cotton flakes) into the back of the standoff being carefull not to cover the screw heads with epoxy, I used a syringe with a large diameter needle! You should only be "glueing" the tubes. For safety you can also apply some grease to the screw threads and heads to avoid epoxy sticking to them.
Before and after resin pour
Then put the hull aside somewhere safe with the bow pointing up into the air and let the resin set. Make sure the boat is perfectly vertical in both axis.
And now time for bed.....
Oh and I almost forgot, I also glued in two 2mm thick CF plates (starboard and port) to strenghen the back of the sponson where the arneson drives get mounted. This is not absolutely required but when I talked about it with HP he said it was probably a good thing. Hp does not sell these so you need to make your own. I have also read that there is someone else selling these as part of a CF kit for the HPR 06.
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